ROTH CHERRY PIE FLAKE BUNDLES - RATTLE BOMBS

Description

Get a professional classic Roth Flake paint job in your garage with Roth Rattle Bombs! Layering these pro paint products will give your paint job depth and vivid shine!
The Rattle Bombs work together as a system with each product fulfilling a step:
Roth Rattle Bomb Basecoat
Roth Rattle Bomb Flake
Roth Rattle Bomb Kandy (Optional)
Clearcoat of your choice
You can even mix them up for some wild color combinations!
Save by bundling the BASE, FLAKE, KANDY and CLEAR COAT layers!
Why order your paint from us?
CHEAP FLAT RATE WE SHIP ANYWHERE IN CONTINENTAL U.S.
Same or Next day Handling
- we jump on your order, carefully package it, and get it on the UPS truck FAST.
If you order multiple items, we will combine your orders to save on shipping when possible.
HOW TO USE:
-Apply a basecoat. We have bundled the CHERRY PIE here, but you can order a base separately to create your own look.
-Apply Metal Flake.  This bundle includes the CHERRY PIE Flake. However, there are  over 10 flakes to choose from.
-Apply Kandy. Kandy is a transparent layer of paint that goes over the flake and adds depth to the paint job and vibrance to the colors! We have bundled CHERRY PIE Kandy, but you can experiment with others (blue + red for purple effect, etc.)
-Apply Clear Coat.
Finish your paint job with 2K (2-stage) SPRAYMAX CLEAR COAT for ultimate shine, polishable mirror-like finish, and protection.
(We bundle "High Gloss" aka "Glamour" or "Glam" clear coat for great results with these paints)
HOW TO SAVE
:
-Save a buck: ADD YOUR FLAKE LAYER FOR JUST .99. (regular .99)
-Save two bucks: ADD YOUR KANDY LAYER
FOR JUST .99. (regular .99)
-Save three bucks: ADD 2K CLEAR COAT GLAM FOR JUST . (regular .00)
-Combining saves on shipping, too!
Detailed instructions:
1. Prep
For prepping a car for flake
(or a bike, or a fuel tank, or anything)
, treat it just like you were going to clearcoat it. Make sure all corners and edges are properly masked off. Some people start off by wet sanding at 400 grit, and end up finishing it at 600. After wet sanding, wipe the car down with wax and grease remover, and let it dry.
2. Basecoat Layer
Pick out a basecoat that's close to the same color as the flake. Spray the basecoat, be sure to cover all the primer, and let the basecoat flash. Once the basecoat has dried, it s time for flake.
3. Flake Layers
Just like any other stage of the paint, you want to start out at the highest point and work your way down. By this point, you've already primed and basecoated the panel, and should have a plan to make your way down it.
Start by fogging the whole pane. You want to have enough down to stick, but not so much where you will get runs. Once you've covered the panel, focus on any curves or harsh bodylines. Pay extra attention to peaks and the edges of your panels, especially if you want to wet sand the final clearcoat and you don't want to burn through.
Once you've sprayed enough flake for the look you want, you need to wait for the paint to get tacky. To see if it is time for the Kandy clearcoat, find a spot on the masking tape right next to the last part that you sprayed. Touch it with your fingertip, and slowly pull it away. If it sticks to your finger and is tacky when you pull back, it's ready for clear, otherwise wait until it gets tacky.
4. Kandy Layer
Kandy can be challenging to lay out. It has a transparent tint and must be sprayed out evenly in order for the color to come out uniform. Basecoats should be sprayed out even and smooth in order to avoid blotchy kandy jobs. Do not panel spray. Try to shoot entire sides so the kandy comes out even on the complete area.
5. Final Clearcoat Layer
The clearcoat is a clear, shiny layer of paint that s applied over the basecoat color. It protects the paint from UV and is necessary to make the paint shine. The basecoat/flake/kandy contain the color and the clearcoat brings them to life.
This is as straightforward as it sounds. Metal flake REALLY pops when it is buried in clearcoat, so you need to spray an additional clearcoat over your flake. Again, start at the top, and clear your work until all of the flake is buried.
After you've sprayed your final clearcoat, let it tack until it gets sticky, then pull off the tape and masking. Be careful! If you let the clearcoat dry on the tape, sometimes it will take off chunks of paint with it when you finally pull it off. So save yourself the headache and unmask it when the clearcoat is still relatively sticky.